After spending a few days in the chaos that is Bangkok, arriving in Chiang Mai was like a breath of fresh air. Still every bit as hot and humid, but somehow a lot easier to deal with. Probably because it isn't as noisy, or as fast. We came off the train to the usual bombardment of "taxi!.. taxi!.. tuktuk!.." and took a sharp turn left, away from the crowds of wannabe drivers. A lady, seperate from the main crowd, came over and spoke in fluent english, to whom we gave our hotel's address and was soon on our way - for an agreed 150 baht.
Arriving at our hotel was heaven - after a 15 hour overnight train ride - an air-conditioned room with TV and private bathroom was luxury. And we would be here for the next week... first stop, a dip in the hotel pool, second stop, breakfast at the resident "sit down and shut up cafe." Hahaha - what a name! All good though - it was all we felt like doing anyway.
Our train journey wasn't all that bad, as it goes. We had hoped for a first-class sleeper cabin, but unfortunately they were all booked out - so we had had to settle for second class, shared cabins - only slightly comforted by the fact that they were half price, compared to first. But to be honest, we actually think we'll travel second class again. Our seats were pretty comfortable, inward facing, and had tables that you could eat your meals on. Then, at night-time, the seats get converted into beds, curtains are put up for your privacy, and there are pillows and blankets for your comfort (wrapped in plastic and smelling fresh, so you know they've been cleaned). A 'top bunk' is pulled down, above you - for any pour soul who had no choice but to purchase that - which creates a nice roof for our 'bottom bunk' beds. We each slept with our backpacks, for security, and managed to get a decent enough night's sleep. The only complaint I do have - is the toilet. I had to physically stop myself from throwing up mid-pee... the heat, the stench, the fact that it really isn't much more than a hole over the railtracks... was almost too much for me.
But back to Chiang Mai... for anyone planning a visit to Thailand - you must include Chiang Mai on your itinerary. It is a vibrant, friendly, and incredibly exciting place. Our first night we were told "you mustn't miss the sunday night market!" And seeing as this was literally round the corner from where we were staying - we of course took the advise. Row after row of colourful market stall - selling locally made wares such as dresses, bags, jewelery, cusion covers, silk dressing gowns, and pretty much every other thing that makes a girl happy, all for extraordinarily cheap prices that could all be bartered even cheaper! Karlos pretended he wasn't interested in this market and so assumed the role of 'barterer' to amuse himself - he was the middle man between me and the stall holders, and managed to score some sweet deals for me! "500 baht?" "No way! She isn't paying that much! 200 baht?" So much fun! There were rows of lazyboy recliners along one wall - "foot massages, 30 minutes for 60 baht (NZ$3)" and endless stalls of delicious smelling meats, all enticing shoppers to take care of themselves... presumably so they could shop all night long!
On our first proper day in Chiang Mai we set off with 4 other people, on a jungle adventure - a full day of fun, including travel and lunch - for 1200 baht ($60). Our first stop in the adventure was an elephant camp, where we got to ride an elephant through the jungle! It was an hour's ride, but elephants don't move that fast so we didn't get too far! Our elephant was either incredibly stupid, or really smart... it started off well, we were in the lead for a while, but then it slowed down and would only move a few metres before stopping and bringing his trunk back to us for the expected banana. It usually wouldn't move until it had at least two... I'm thinking it was probably smart. We had a little Thai man sitting on the elephant's head, who would grunt and whack it with a stick if it got too stubborn though. All in all - quite the experience.
Next was a delicious lunch of fried rice and fresh watermelon... and then we were off into the jungle for an hours hiking. No worries I though - an hour, pffft, nothing... but the heat was unreal, and our guide had such pace we were practically jogging. We had to cross rivers using stepping stones, planks of wood sometimes, and jump over large boulders, rocks, and plenty of uneven paths. It was fun, much needed exercise, but the weight of my pack, the heat, and my constant sweating meant that I was getting really light headed. I wobbled, nearly fainted, but Karlos grabbed me, I poured water over my head, and we made it the last stretch to find paradise waiting at the top.
After swimming in the cool, fresh water, and letting the power of the waterfall massage our shoulders and backs - we were back down through the jungle, for an hour of white water rafting (scary, as I'd never done it before - but our guide was really competent, yet relaxed and a lot of fun) - definitely want to do that again some day, it was heaps of adrenaline filled fun! Then once the rapids had past, we jumped into the river and swam to some bamboo rafts, that were floated in wait of us. We had a relaxing float back to the elephant camp - from where our driver collected us and took us back to our hotel - exhaaaaausted, but very happy with the day.
After our jungle adventure, I spent the next couple of days swimming, reading books by the pool, soaking up the sun, and making the most of our hotel's wonderful beauty salon. Run by two very sweet local ladies - one who couldn't speak a word of english - their price list, and service is out of this world. I truly believe that any budding beauty therapists, in NZ, UK, or any other 'western' country, should take a business trip to Thailand to have these women show you properly how it is done. Their skills, attention to detail, and pride they take in seeking to make you feel as relaxed and as pampered as possible - is second to none. Better yet - perhaps we should pay them to visit us. I would be extremely happy to see these women paid NZ prices for their work - hour-long massages in salons back home tend to be around $100/hour and upwards... here in Chiang Mai, I paid just $10.
My first beauty salon experience was a pedicure, resulting in neat, sparkly blue toenails and soft pinky soles. And the second - a traditional thai massage. I would like to write about this a little... firstly to point out how utterly ignorant I am! I hear the word "massage" and instantly I think - dim lights, warm oils, ping pong music, soft hands... but this isn't quite what I had in store. As I thought of Karlos on his second jungle adventure, zip-linning through the treetops and working up a sweat, I couldn't help but smile smugly thinking how different my afternoon of massage was going to be... However, as I was shown into the massage room by the non-english speaking therapist, saw the matt on the floor and the tunic and fisherman's pants at the foot of it, that I was indicated to put on, I knew this wasn't going to be quite as I had imagined...
With my oversized outfit on, laying anxiously on the floor matt, my masseuse returned and the ordeal began. It began with her bending my feet as far back as they would go until they popped. I almost sat bolt upright, but intrigue held me in my place... a few minutes in to the massage, my left leg now in a position I was certain it wouldn't naturally put itself into, I had to stiffle the giggles. Realising now, with some certainty, that this is indeed not what I expected... uncomfortable, painful at times, and at no point relaxing... I just couldn't help but want to giggle! Still, curiosity being my strongest attribute, I stuck with it.
About half-way through my thai massage I literally thought I was going to die. She's going to break me, I thought. Literally snap me in two. My massage consisted of my body being contorted, stretched, beaten, and walked on - for an agonising ONE WHOLE HOUR! But, at the end of it, I felt a-maz-ing. I had not realised just how tense my body had been. My masseuse released that tension and I felt more supple, more relaxed, and also more energised than I had for a very long time. The massage was so good I began thinking that maybe I could be a thai massage therapist... until I realised, recieving a massage is so much better than giving. What was I thinking! Hahahaha. My current mission is to convince Karlos he must get one... man have a lower threshold of pain, apparantly... let's see how this goes... hahaha.
And so, our time in Chiang Mai was pretty special... we had a wicked night out on the town, one night - meeting lots of locals, dancing on tables, and drinking thai whisky (samsong) out of buckets... a hint at what we had in store, on the island of Koh Phangan...
The adventures just keep getting better!
~ Comet xo
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